When I was younger, I always wanted a fancy tractor to play in the sand box. Well 40 years later I got one.
We would like to welcome Alfie the Mini-Excavator to the SENWI team. Alfie spent most of his life up in the Whistler, BC area where he worked on the rock gang and was often left out in winter's cold cold harsh weather. We at SENWI wanted to rescue Alfie and let him live out his senior years in the relative comfort of the lower mainland.
Alfie has an impressive 10ft digging depth and due to his rigorous exercise schedule is able to fit through a 5'3" opening. So he is great for those small back yard projects you have been putting off. He loves to dig and is quite skilled at digging a small trench for a perimeter drainage system. For fun he likes to knock out stumps, small trees, and brush and has even been know to transplant the odd bush or two. His thumb makes it child's play for him to move around rocks or slabs in the various landscaping projects he will be helping us with.
We decided to ask Alfie to join our team, as I anticipated having a large volume of landscaping to be done on our build. Having a help like Alfie on site during the build itself will also be invaluable. He has already provide some ideas on how to create a small deck on his
boom to help me lift materials up to the second floor and claims he is
up to the task of removing our structure and concrete slab when we tear
down our existing dwelling. He also can't wait to show his brawn and lift in all the heavy beams I will have on the first floor ceiling.
A friend of Alfie costs $3200 a month to rent. If we only rented when we really needed a helper like this, then we would not have one around for all the small jobs that Alfie will be great at. At a minimum, we would need one of Alfie's friends for a period of 6 months at a minimum cost of $19,200 + Tax. At a purchase price that was less than this, Alfie just makes financial sense.
His arrival has also sparked up interest in the neighbourhood and he has already been asked to play at two yards nearby which of course helps reduce his purchase costs. For longer trips, he has made friends with Butch the tow truck during his trip down from Whistler, so that he can get out and play in other yards on occasion.
Documenting the path one person is taking to achieve their version of sustainable living and construction.
Thursday, 13 September 2012
Alfie the Excavator joins the SENWI Team!
Labels:
Energy Efficient Building,
Energy Efficient Home,
Green Architecture,
Home Design,
Owner Build House,
Passive House,
Sustainability,
Sustainable Living
Location: North Vancouver
630-652 W 14 St, North Vancouver, BC V7M 1R2, Canada
Saturday, 1 September 2012
Finally Re-Started
I can proudly say, as of
yesterday, I have finally restarted the design process for the floor layout
with an effort this time to maximize the sun’s exposure for living areas (align living
areas along the south side and utilities along the north) and minimize the floor
area in general in order to lower costs and also fit within the District of
North Vancouver’s floor space ratios (even with my thicker walls). In a jet-lag-induced-stupor, I broke out
AutoCAD (which I use for prototyping), blew away all the walls on my previous
designs and started the process over. I have done this probably a dozen times
over the last 10 -12 years and it always surprises me that the ‘next’ design is
often substantially different than the last design. As my priorities and goals change, so does
the layout of our home.
But I digress. That is a
conversation for a totally different blog.
The point is, I do not see that this will be a pleasant place to live
for decades (if ever), and so the emphasis of my design will now be
marketability as opposed to personalization.
In this region that means bedrooms, the more bedrooms the better. It does not really matter on what size the
bedrooms are and many are filled up with a queen sized bed. If I were truly building to market demands, I
would also add more bathrooms. Many
homes in my neighbourhood have a bathroom attached to each bedroom. But in my books, this is just nuts. My generation and my parent’s generation
managed just fine with only one bathroom in the house. Yes that’s right one bathroom! Can you imagine?
Although I will be building with
marketability in mind, I still believe that builders should be providing a
legacy in the structures that they provide and not a liability. So I will be trying to provide the ‘features’
that the current buying public want, but not at the expense of the building
envelope and compactness of the home. I
will talk about this and my design process more in future posts.
For now though, I would like to
leave you with some thoughts I have as a resident of the North Shore on my
return from a holiday to Chicago, Scotland, and London. I feel I am further up the curve of what I
consider a sustainable path through life, just by the programs in place where I
live when viewed in contrast to these recently visited regions.
Let me start with Chicago. This is a LARGE city by Canadian standards
(approximately 4-5 times bigger than Greater Vancouver) and there was a lot of
waste produced and a lot of traffic.
What was not visible were recycling efforts or car pool/transit lanes.
When I talked with our drivers,
they did not think anything of the traffic, and felt it was acceptable to
commute through communities in order to miss the back-up on the highways. Really???
The City is looking at adding ‘green-wash items’ like bike lanes in the
core, but what about the gridlock? Why
not reward drivers who carpool and take transit by allowing those drivers/passengers an
expedited path through the gridlock.
This will help solve many of your problems including road capacity
(encourages denser passenger ratios), pollution (less stop and go traffic), and
less cars means less damage to road structure.
As a resident of Greater
Vancouver, I was also shocked at the lack of recycling generally available in
the City. For any city in any part of
the world, recycling just makes common sense.
Yes there is an expense to do so, but let’s consider the savings. The pickup costs are largely offset by the
reduction in garbage pickup volume.
Reduced garbage volume means less pressure on the landfills. Much of what is normally recycled are often
items that do not readily break down in landfills and can often leach all kinds
of nasties into the surrounding soil and groundwater. By recycling them we can reclaim many of the
materials in the products we throw out.
This reduces costs to remediate dumps, reduces manufacturing costs
(recycled material is by its nature pre-processed and so often easier to
incorporate into a manufacturing process than raw material and usually much
cheaper to purchase as well), and of course recapturing raw materials puts a
lot less strain on the diminishing natural resources on this planet and reduces
our need for their exploitation.
Scotland also lacked any visible
recycling program, and I felt horrible, throwing away plastic, paper, and glass
while there. With a total population of
just over 5 million (less than Chicago) and a land mass of 30K square miles
compared to Chicago’s 1487 square miles, their logistics challenges for collection
is understandable. But I am sure that
the Country could come up with some innovative methods if they put their heads
to it. For me, it felt almost barbaric, like living with an attitude that stated - Not a problem – we have LOTS of room to just
dump it.
The other surprising point for me
in Scotland was the food. It was
generally heavy (meat and potatoes or seafood and potatoes), and often lacked
the addition of fresh vegetables. Salads
were never a standard part of the meal in most locations we visited. One server just could not understand that we
wanted vegetables with our dinner and not chips. Near the end of our trip, I
remarked on this to a Chef at an Inn in Gairlock, and the son of one of our
neighbour’s. He advised that the growing
season in Scotland just does not support the production of produce. Indeed in my travels, I did not drive by even
one farm, lots of fields of grazing sheep, but no crops of any nature. He advised that the vast majority of the
Countries’ food is imported from the nearby European neighbours. They apparently do not even eat a lot of lamb and
instead export that product because it is generally too expensive for the
‘locals’. Fortunately, he followed up our
conversation with a large salad course to our meal that was a welcomed addition.
This, however, got me thinking
about the sustainability of that type of culture, and the need for innovative
solutions. If we can grow tomatoes in a
greenhouse in the Vancouver region, why can’t others? It made me realize that a lot of the things I
take for granted back home are really very innovative and environmentally
responsible, compared to the practices in many other parts of the world:
- We generally have car pool and transit lanes on many arterial routes into and out of the cities (still LOTS of room for improvement). We provide special parking for small cars, electric cars, and co-op cars.
- We recycle a lot of our trash (the percentage is growing all the time – the District of North Vancouver recently introduced a food waste recycling program) and if our Municipalities are unable to provide recycling pick up or drop off, there are companies like Pacific Mobile that provide drop-off service for many non-compostable products that we as a society would otherwise throw out.
- We have available to us locally grown and raised produce. I can even go to a major chain and buy vegetables and fruit grown locally in BC (far less often as we should be able to, but it is a start). And if I am willing to split my shopping trip up, I can buy fresh and often organic meat and vegetables from smaller stores or directly from the producers.
- We in BC enjoy one of the cleanest electricity grids in North America if not the world.
- We in BC have much better building standards for insulation, soon to be air tightness, and requirements to keep water out compared with much of the world.
I leave you with this thought:
WIKI describes “produce” as a description that is often
implying that the products are fresh and generally (being made available) in
the same (region) where they were harvested.
Think about this the next time you pick up a bag of grapes, melons, or
even snap peas at the local supermarket. Look
at the labels for where the ‘produce’ was grown. I think you will be shocked.
Now, think of all the actions required to get
the product from where it is grown to the shelf that is now in front of
you. Think of the fuel burned in trucks,
boats and planes to move that product. Think of what chemicals and pollutants the ‘produce’ may have been
exposed to back in the growing country.
Ask yourself. “Are these sustainable practices?” I know my answer!
Labels:
Built Green,
CFL vs regular bulbs,
David Suzuki senate petition,
LEED Canada for Homes,
Organic Produce,
Owner Build House,
PassivHaus,
Recycling,
Sustainable Living,
Where does our food come from?
Location: North Vancouver
710-742 Marine Dr, North Vancouver, BC V7M 1H3, Canada
Tuesday, 31 July 2012
WSS, WRB, AB, & VP - Oh My!
After my last post, many of you are probably left wondering: "Has he done ANYTHING on his design yet?"
The truth is I have; not all my time over the last 4 or so years I have been ‘working’ on this project has been wasted. Although I do not have any hard blueprints or floor-plans yet, I have continued to flesh out ideas for different components of the build by continuing to invest considerable time into research, seminars, technical courses, and discussions with colleagues.
One of the components I have invested the most time into (I would estimate at over 200 hours to date), is what will be best practice for my water shedding surface (WSS), water resistant barrier (WRB), air barrier (AB), and vapour barrier (VB). There are probably as many opinions in this field as there are blades of grass in my front yard. And it has taken me over five years to come to some conclusions of my own in this area (was interested in this subject long before I started this latest design journey) but even now, I am running lab tests to prove or disprove whether my decisions are wise enough to proceed on the real thing.
One of the key factors in deciding on a WRB, is first deciding on an AB strategy. The most common strategy this (in my region) is an attempt to seal the vapour-barrier-poly on the inside surface of the wall (beneath the drywall) to also serve as the air barrier. As a home inspector who has been in hundreds of attics, crawlspaces, and basements, I can honestly say I have yet to see a poly-vapour-barrier adequately detailed to form an effective air barrier. It is next to impossible to form a lasting air-tight seal using poly and tape around penetrations like wiring, floor joists, knee walls, etc. In most homes I have looked at, there hasn’t been a serious attempt to install this so important barrier. The reason? It is hard, takes a long time to do right, and is therefore expensive. So it tends to just get a half hearted effort so that the contractors can tick off the requirement as they move forward in the build.
Let’s back up a moment: "Isn’t making a house more air tight why we are having so many problems with moisture issues and mould in North America?" I am quite confident a large number of people reading this right now agree with this statement. "After all, we did not start to have these problems until we started to make our building stock more ‘energy efficient’ – Right?"
The truth is, it is the process of adding additional insulation, and not ‘attempting’ to make our assembly’s air tight (I state attempting because we have actually done a really poor job in this field to date), that has led to the increased risk for our wall and roof assemblies. I talked about this last March in my ‘New Education’ posting. You see, in the old days our houses were very inefficient but somewhat durable. Sure the huge volume of air that flowed through our assemblies helped to keep some components dry, but it was the heat escaping through our poorly or un-insulated walls and ceilings that was doing most of the work. This heat acted to ‘cook’ out any moisture in the wall and roof sheathing. Once we started to increase insulation levels, we started to cool these surfaces down and eventually we cooled them down enough to reach the dew-point potential of our standard interior air (which for the Pacific Northwest at 21°C and 50-55% RH is around 10°C). As we can reach this temperature for most of the fall through early summer in my region, the risk is actually very high and I see the outcome often, especially in attic cavities, in my inspection practice where a great number of homes I have looked at over the last four years that have had ‘modern levels’ of insulation in the attics, have also had moisture problems and mould in the attics.
As we have added more insulation to our dwellings to make them more comfortable and energy efficient, the air barrier, which has been the most ignored barrier to date in our building codes in my view, needs to become the star of the show. In truth, it should have always been the star of the show, because reducing the air exchange through the assemblies automatically makes the home more comfortable and energy efficient without adding a stitch of insulation (read about my personal experience back on my January ‘We own a House’ entry).
To emphasize the importance of the air barrier, let me provide this graphic from Building Science Corporation in their paper RR-0412: Insulations, Sheathings and Vapour Retarders. This provides a dramatic visual of how much vapour movement can occur through the smallest of holes in the air barrier compared to a large hole in the vapour barrier.
One convenient fact about the air barrier, unlike the vapour barrier that must go on the high pressure side, is that it can be placed anywhere in the assembly. There is no rule that states that the AB and VB have to be combined, and there are much easier ways to detail the air barrier than trying to seal the poly. What IS important to pay attention to is the vapour permeability of the air barrier, and ensuring it is appropriate for the location installed. In a heating climate with the vapour barrier to the inside, you want to ensure all components installed outboard of that barrier are as vapour-permeable as possible, to allow the assembly to breath to the outside. So if you are creating an exterior air barrier, it is very important that the barrier has high vapour-permeability.
When choosing your products make, sure you get independent data to support the manufacture’s claims of permeability. We recently tested several sheet style sheathing wraps for vapour permeance at a Building Envelope Lab course at BCIT. There was no surprise that our control wrapped in Poly was still soaking wet after 10 weeks, but what was a surprise was how long it took some of the sheathing membranes - Typar and Vapro Shield specifically - to dry out. Both of these developed considerable mould on the samples because they had not dried out fast enough. Even 2 layers of 60 minute building paper outperformed them and exhibited only a few tiny spots of mould.
Some options for creating an Air Barrier are as follows:
• Air Tight Drywall Approach
• Sealed Poly Approach (Combining with Vapour Barrier)
• Sealed Exterior Sheathing Approach
• Sealed Exterior Insulation Approach
• Sealed Exterior Sheathing Wrap Approach (cannot use building paper for an air barrier)
• Sealed Interior Sheathing Approach (Used a lot in the PassivHaus circles)
• Combinations of all or some of the above
Many in the scientific community advocate an external air barrier approach. The benefits of an exterior air barrier approach are as follows:
• Can be detailed and tested early in the construction process to ensure you are on the right track and address if you are not.
• Is easily reparable during the build, up to the time the cladding or exterior insulation is installed.
• Is usually easier to make the barrier much more durable if the barrier is sandwiched between components.
• My favourite - Opens up the possibility of using a liquid applied barrier.
• But probably the most important - There are far fewer penetrations on the exterior of a wall assembly and most of those penetrations have square sides and are therefore easier to detail.
Because of these benefits, and my research to date, I have elected to implement an exterior air barrier approach on my build, and I'm currently testing a liquid-applied barrier from Prosoco called R-Guard Cat5. This would act as both the Air Barrier and Water-Resistant Barrier. If all goes well in testing, and I proceed with this approach, I will be applying the product to the exterior sheathing prior to installing my outboard continuous insulation. I will discuss this a lot more in future postings but for now I have started to video diary my product tests on a mock-up which I have uploaded to You Tube.
I would welcome any comments or words of warning you may have. Next month we will talk about the Water Resistant Barrier. Thanks for reading!
The truth is I have; not all my time over the last 4 or so years I have been ‘working’ on this project has been wasted. Although I do not have any hard blueprints or floor-plans yet, I have continued to flesh out ideas for different components of the build by continuing to invest considerable time into research, seminars, technical courses, and discussions with colleagues.
One of the components I have invested the most time into (I would estimate at over 200 hours to date), is what will be best practice for my water shedding surface (WSS), water resistant barrier (WRB), air barrier (AB), and vapour barrier (VB). There are probably as many opinions in this field as there are blades of grass in my front yard. And it has taken me over five years to come to some conclusions of my own in this area (was interested in this subject long before I started this latest design journey) but even now, I am running lab tests to prove or disprove whether my decisions are wise enough to proceed on the real thing.
One of the key factors in deciding on a WRB, is first deciding on an AB strategy. The most common strategy this (in my region) is an attempt to seal the vapour-barrier-poly on the inside surface of the wall (beneath the drywall) to also serve as the air barrier. As a home inspector who has been in hundreds of attics, crawlspaces, and basements, I can honestly say I have yet to see a poly-vapour-barrier adequately detailed to form an effective air barrier. It is next to impossible to form a lasting air-tight seal using poly and tape around penetrations like wiring, floor joists, knee walls, etc. In most homes I have looked at, there hasn’t been a serious attempt to install this so important barrier. The reason? It is hard, takes a long time to do right, and is therefore expensive. So it tends to just get a half hearted effort so that the contractors can tick off the requirement as they move forward in the build.
Let’s back up a moment: "Isn’t making a house more air tight why we are having so many problems with moisture issues and mould in North America?" I am quite confident a large number of people reading this right now agree with this statement. "After all, we did not start to have these problems until we started to make our building stock more ‘energy efficient’ – Right?"
The truth is, it is the process of adding additional insulation, and not ‘attempting’ to make our assembly’s air tight (I state attempting because we have actually done a really poor job in this field to date), that has led to the increased risk for our wall and roof assemblies. I talked about this last March in my ‘New Education’ posting. You see, in the old days our houses were very inefficient but somewhat durable. Sure the huge volume of air that flowed through our assemblies helped to keep some components dry, but it was the heat escaping through our poorly or un-insulated walls and ceilings that was doing most of the work. This heat acted to ‘cook’ out any moisture in the wall and roof sheathing. Once we started to increase insulation levels, we started to cool these surfaces down and eventually we cooled them down enough to reach the dew-point potential of our standard interior air (which for the Pacific Northwest at 21°C and 50-55% RH is around 10°C). As we can reach this temperature for most of the fall through early summer in my region, the risk is actually very high and I see the outcome often, especially in attic cavities, in my inspection practice where a great number of homes I have looked at over the last four years that have had ‘modern levels’ of insulation in the attics, have also had moisture problems and mould in the attics.
As we have added more insulation to our dwellings to make them more comfortable and energy efficient, the air barrier, which has been the most ignored barrier to date in our building codes in my view, needs to become the star of the show. In truth, it should have always been the star of the show, because reducing the air exchange through the assemblies automatically makes the home more comfortable and energy efficient without adding a stitch of insulation (read about my personal experience back on my January ‘We own a House’ entry).
To emphasize the importance of the air barrier, let me provide this graphic from Building Science Corporation in their paper RR-0412: Insulations, Sheathings and Vapour Retarders. This provides a dramatic visual of how much vapour movement can occur through the smallest of holes in the air barrier compared to a large hole in the vapour barrier.
One convenient fact about the air barrier, unlike the vapour barrier that must go on the high pressure side, is that it can be placed anywhere in the assembly. There is no rule that states that the AB and VB have to be combined, and there are much easier ways to detail the air barrier than trying to seal the poly. What IS important to pay attention to is the vapour permeability of the air barrier, and ensuring it is appropriate for the location installed. In a heating climate with the vapour barrier to the inside, you want to ensure all components installed outboard of that barrier are as vapour-permeable as possible, to allow the assembly to breath to the outside. So if you are creating an exterior air barrier, it is very important that the barrier has high vapour-permeability.
When choosing your products make, sure you get independent data to support the manufacture’s claims of permeability. We recently tested several sheet style sheathing wraps for vapour permeance at a Building Envelope Lab course at BCIT. There was no surprise that our control wrapped in Poly was still soaking wet after 10 weeks, but what was a surprise was how long it took some of the sheathing membranes - Typar and Vapro Shield specifically - to dry out. Both of these developed considerable mould on the samples because they had not dried out fast enough. Even 2 layers of 60 minute building paper outperformed them and exhibited only a few tiny spots of mould.
Some options for creating an Air Barrier are as follows:
• Air Tight Drywall Approach
• Sealed Poly Approach (Combining with Vapour Barrier)
• Sealed Exterior Sheathing Approach
• Sealed Exterior Insulation Approach
• Sealed Exterior Sheathing Wrap Approach (cannot use building paper for an air barrier)
• Sealed Interior Sheathing Approach (Used a lot in the PassivHaus circles)
• Combinations of all or some of the above
Many in the scientific community advocate an external air barrier approach. The benefits of an exterior air barrier approach are as follows:
• Can be detailed and tested early in the construction process to ensure you are on the right track and address if you are not.
• Is easily reparable during the build, up to the time the cladding or exterior insulation is installed.
• Is usually easier to make the barrier much more durable if the barrier is sandwiched between components.
• My favourite - Opens up the possibility of using a liquid applied barrier.
• But probably the most important - There are far fewer penetrations on the exterior of a wall assembly and most of those penetrations have square sides and are therefore easier to detail.
Because of these benefits, and my research to date, I have elected to implement an exterior air barrier approach on my build, and I'm currently testing a liquid-applied barrier from Prosoco called R-Guard Cat5. This would act as both the Air Barrier and Water-Resistant Barrier. If all goes well in testing, and I proceed with this approach, I will be applying the product to the exterior sheathing prior to installing my outboard continuous insulation. I will discuss this a lot more in future postings but for now I have started to video diary my product tests on a mock-up which I have uploaded to You Tube.
I would welcome any comments or words of warning you may have. Next month we will talk about the Water Resistant Barrier. Thanks for reading!
Friday, 13 July 2012
SENWiEco takes a shot at applying R-Guard Fast Flash from Prosoco
The second in a series of videos providing a demonstration in the application of the R-Guard product line.
SENWiEco applies R-Guard Joint & Seam from Prosoco
The first in a series of videos demonstration the application of the R-Guard system.
Monday, 2 July 2012
My Ingredients for an Owner Built Home
Sorry for the delay in this posting. The truth is, it is time for a confession - I
am stuck! I am also sorry in advance - this is a long one!
I have been in a hole I do not seem to be able to dig myself
out of for many months now – 300 days to be exact. You see, this was the day that I found out
that the Municipality I lived in (District of North Vancouver - DNV) was not as
‘green’ as I had anticipated/hoped, and I was going to have a FSR (floor space
ratio) issue with my fatter-better-insulated-walls.
But more on that in next month’s posting, I want to talk now
about the ingredients I think are needed for an owner built home – some of
which may surprise you (they did me). The basic ingredient list for your
owner-build recipe might be something like:
• Money
• Skills or willingness/ability to
learn
• Component knowledge or
willingness/ability to research
• Health
Money – Obviously you are going to need a sizable quantity of
cash or credit. In my region this can be
anywhere from $75/ft2 at the extreme low end, $130-$150 as an
average value, and $200-$300/ft2 and up for a highly custom home
with high end finishings. These are the
costs to have the home built 100% by others, any sweat equity that you put into
the process can allow you to lower your costs or increase the quality of your
finishings. It is important to define a
budget right at the beginning, as this will allow you to make decisions
throughout the process as to how to best meet the budget and goals of your
build and see, quite clearly, where it makes sense to put the money. We have an
initial budget of $300K-$350K.
Skills – Sure, you have built a greenhouse or garden shed –
but do you really have the skills needed to build your own house, including
installing/constructing each of the components that make up a finished
dwelling? It is important to realize
your limitations early in the process so that you can focus on what you do well
at, pay others for what you really are poor at, and practice on what you
probably know how to do but are not great at.
This will also allow you to get some training and practice in those
areas to hone and polish your skills in these areas before you get to the ‘big
tent’.
Knowledge – Skills are great, but if you do not know what you
need to do, it really does not matter that you have the ability to do it.
Knowledge can be gained in many ways and often at very little to no cost. There is a vast array of free knowledge on
the internet. Building forums,
manufacturers websites, and consumer review sites are just some of the
resources available to you, at no or very little cost, on the net. There is
then the local technical school courses available on most of the systems and
components found within a home. These are often just a few hundred dollars for
6 or 12 weeks of instruction. They will give you a fundamental in the system of
interest and show quickly areas where your knowledge may be weak. One of my favourite sources of knowledge is
to attend industry sponsored seminars.
The BC Building
Envelope Council, Thermal
Environmental Comfort Association, Home Protection Office,
and the Electrical Inspectors
Association of BC are my personal four favourite seminar sources. You hear directly from industry experts what
are the current challenges and solutions available in the marketplace.
Knowledge and skills are probably interchangeable as to which
is more important in this list. You
really need both to proceed. I
personally listed skills as more important for me as this is probably the area
I am weaker on and is harder to improve. You can of course have natural skills,
but most skills are learned by watching others.
You usually need to physically see someone else doing it right to
understand the steps to doing it right yourself. This, of course, is the
fundamental element of ALL apprentice, articling, or residency type programs
out there. You Learn by Watching and
then Practicing and Applying.
Knowledge can be read or researched. It can be studied and reviewed. This is for me fundamentally easier and more
available than honing my skills. You can research on the internet, read books,
take courses and, go to seminars. All of these will help you gain knowledge,
but how do you gain skills?
I have found a few ways to do so. Courses that include hands
on components are an excellent start.
The BCIT Building
Envelope Lab is a great example of this type of course and has been
invaluable to me. In it we have been physically practising the application and
detailing of rain barriers, air barriers, flashing, window detailing, etc. It
has reinforced that having knowledge alone without skills is not good enough. I
was horrified when the window I thought I had so carefully detailed --- leaked!
Another way to practice your skill is to volunteer at an organization like Habitat for Humanity. You can work
on an actual site and be guided by pros in the various construction fields. I
have also found that helping with neighbourhood projects has been a great
benefit. You can learn from others or if you are at the top of the knowledge
pole, can practice doing it right before tacking something much larger or more expensive.
Health – Obviously you need to be able to physically do the
work. While this is taken for granted
for many, the requirement has delayed our build for years now. We have had plans to ‘start’ at least 4 times
over the last 6 years. Two lengthy illnesses (thyroid and back), each a year or
more in duration, each 100% debilitating to the point that all normal life
activities stopped during both, managed to derail all previous attempts to
start. The back issue in particular, I had two bulged and torn discs, can haunt
a person. Is it going to hold out? Or
will it fail part way through? I do not know the answer and instead will take a
leap of faith and do everything I can to protect it during the build and strengthen
it prior to the build. I have discussed this with my wife, who has a lot less
confidence than I, and said, “I need to try and do this, if it fails we will
just have to hire someone to finish the build”. This for me is probably the
biggest wild card in the plans, and we just have to make an assumption that I
will remain healthy or this project dies before it ever begins.
The above four ingredients were the ones I was expecting going
into this process. The next items were
ones I did not anticipate needing in such large quantities:
• Organization
• Optimism
• Support
• Resolve
Organization – this has turned into the most needed skill of
all. As I do not normally work in the construction industry, I needed to find
ways to catalogue the huge volume of information I am amassing because I would
not otherwise retain the information.
Whether it was a tip I saw on a TV show, an article I read, a product I
saw on the way home one day, or an insight I gained at a seminar or class, this
all needed to be stored in a way that was easily retrievable and in a format
that was flexible for the different types of information I needed to store. I
have gone through at least 6 iterations of this ‘knowledge database’. I started with an Excel spreadsheet but that
soon became unwieldy. I then transitioned to a Word document, but it became too
difficult to navigate and add information. I started to build an Access
database and realized quickly that it would be too rigid.
I was then exploring a new laptop I bought for my wife one day
and came across a program from Microsoft called OneNote.
My search was finally over! This was a
program that acted like a database, was searchable, infinitely flexible, had
tabs along the top that I could use for all my major components groups (like
plumbing, electrical, exterior, interior, …) and then each tab had ‘pages’ and
‘sub-pages’ down the side that would let me break up each major component into
as many sub groups as I wanted. So for instance, I could take Exterior and
break it up into Cladding (and break that up into main and feature sub-pages),
Windows and Doors, Roof, Flashing, Water Resistant Barrier, Sealants, etc… Each
page then allowed you to store pretty much anything you wanted in any
format. There was no structure, I could
just click on any part of the page and start typing. I could embed videos,
pictures, sketches, and hyperlinks - and of course text as well. I have been
using it for over 6 months now and have not found a shortcoming for the type of
data storage I need on this project.
Optimism – When everyone around you is telling you that “you
are nuts”, you need to have a healthy dose of optimism to proceed down this
path. Most people I know are interested
in the process and some of my professional colleagues actually support me. But
those who know me the best doubt my ability to build this by myself. I do plan on getting some extra hands at key
stages where one set of hands just will not be able to lift something or hold
it in place and secure it at the same time.
But for the vast majority of the build, I plan on performing the labour
myself. I will fully admit, many have
tried and failed, but many have also tried and succeeded. So I need a very
healthy helping of optimism to take me through this.
Support – This comes in many flavours. Emotional support is something I crave and
probably have the least amount of (and probably will not be able to increase as
I do not have any one around who has the same ‘dream’ as I). As I stated above,
most people in my close circle just think I am nuts. Technical support is also
very important and an ingredient I feel I am blessed with. I have developed
some great technical support relationships in the construction field, and feel
well covered in terms of building envelope, building code, electrical, HVAC,
general design, roofing, tile and brick, and interior layout. Many of my
technical support networks could also most likely lead me to trades people
should I ever get stuck (this allows me to have optimism that I have a chance
of doing it myself).
Resolve – The last ingredient is probably the most important,
and one I have not totally mastered yet. Because I have never attempted
anything like this before, I do not have a good blue-print on how to
proceed. What needs to be done? When
does it need to be done? How does it need to be done? How does one item tie
into another? This list is endless and unless I break it down into one small
chunk at a time, it is all-consuming and totally overwhelming! I need to figure
this all out as I go, but the problem is, I am not one to jump into the deep
end. I like to know where I am going before I start. I am known for endlessly
researching a topic. I am having the most difficulty with this ingredient, and
am stalled on making decisions and moving forward. I am always wanting to
research just a little more, or consider one more alternative. Some of this is
healthy and even required, but I guess I am so scared of screwing up, I am
unable to start.
So I blame various setbacks (like the meeting I had with the
district back in Sept 2011) on the delays in the design and engineering. I make
excuses that the delay is actually a good thing because the codes are changing
and I would have had to re-design the plans if I was already done at this stage.
However, I think the real reason I find myself deep in a hole right
now is because I am just too chicken to stick my head out and get moving!
Friday, 8 June 2012
OtterBox Cell Phone Cases
A sustainable product could partially be described as a durable product that is suitable for use. I believe the OtterBox Cell Phone Case meets these criteria.
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