Insulating a Durisol ICF Foundation

Hey folks, sorry for the time span since the last post.  I have been concentrating on keeping my building journal up to date.

As I recently have had some free time due to yet another set of medical setbacks, I recently finished editing and uploading a video showing my process of adhering the Roxul ComfortBoardIS mineral wool insulation to my ICF foundation.


The Soprema Colphene Torch'N Stick membrane would typically be used on a site formed concrete foundation, but because I am using a ICF product from Durisol (made from mineralized wood fibre and cement slurry), I too could use this torch on membrane (a process that would destroy conventional EPS foam ICF forms).  The 'tacking' of the insulation to the membrane is only a light mechanical bond and is only suitable for a temporary support of the insulation (or dimple board and other protection sheets) until the backfill takes place.  You would not be able to use the method for a permanent attachment in an above grade assembly.

Once the insulation was attached, I then fastened dimple sheet to the insulation, installed a granular drainage plain, geotextile, and then compacted backfill.  You can read about these steps on my "coming out of the hole" journal entry.

The overall foundation assembly will have multiple layers of safety and will be very durable, but the installation is costly and very time consuming. I can understand why many of these steps are not incorporated into most residential construction. But then, most residential below grade basements are wet to some degree. As my friend Murray Frank often says "You never hear a comment 'It smells as good as a basement'".

Thanks for visiting folks. I will hopefully post a review of all the products I have used to create my foundation walls within the next few weeks. A majority of the products get a thumbs up from a technical standpoint, but one in particular is a two thumbs down with extreme prejudice.  I encourage you to subscribe if you want to be notified of when this review is posted.

Rotting OSB - Why I refuse to perform rough-in construction during the winter!

I regularly go by a construction site where a friend of my neighbor is the G.C.   This house in out by the ferry terminal in West Vancouver and when done will be a very high cost home.

My latest visit reminded me of why I really do not want to expose my build to the winter rains.  In fact, I will try to keep all rain of the structure until closed in by installing a 60ft x 100ft tarp over a metal cable strung between two large trees.

But back to the visit, I have been visiting this property since before the old house got taken down, and in fact this is where I salvaged very nice cabinetry to use in the walk in closet, master bath, and family entrance as well as a new wall oven and a like new drawer dishwasher.  I also was able to salvage a lot of plant material from the property but so much more got left behind with the thinking it was out of the way, when in reality - they have just been trashed, such a shame.

Cabinet salvaged to be used in Master Bath

Gorgeous drawers and storage for Master Walk-In-Closet

Base cabinets to be used for family entrance

Wall cabinets to be used for family entrance

 But again I digress.  The new house has been under construction since the middle of May 2013.  The roof was installed sometime in December, but as of yesterday the majority of windows still have not been placed, and as the main floor living areas is 100% windows, the structure is very much NOT waterproof and has been subjected to many storm events leading to total saturation.  And the structure is starting to show its distress accordingly.  I noticed these symptoms a couple of weeks ago when there but was only able to return with a camera yesterday.

This dwelling is still at the rough in stage and is showing rather significant surface mould and rot fungi.  These OSB webs are now compromised **A conversation with someone much smarter than me indicated the webs should still be OK as long as this is dried out and cleaned off **.  Not only do I want to prevent this wetting with a tarped site, this is a perfect example of how poorly OSB stands up in wet environments.

 In the end, this will probably get cleaned up as the G.C. is quite conscientious, but normally, this would just get closed in and the occupants would wonder why their floors bounce a little more than they should.

ROXUL Mineral Wool Insulation - Highly Vapour Open

Dr. John Straube of Building Science Corp dispels the misconceptions of mineral wool insulation and identifies some of the many benefits from choosing ROXUL in this 3.5 minute video.

http://youtu.be/Fc6sVrVjRks

Of particular importance is his comments regarding the vapour permeance of a mineral wool insulation in comparison with rigid or spray foam insulation and why this is so important.

"Some insulation products that have built-in vapour resistance can impede drying and this can become an important concern during design. The resiliency of a wall to built-in construction moisture or accidental flaws in water control needs to consider how that insulation will allow drying outward."

"There are many types of foam insulation but all of them are characterized by limiting vapour flow through them."

"If the design is not taking into account resistant properties of foam, you can trap moisture in a wall or roof assembly, and of course trapped moisture leads to damage such as mould growth, corrosion or decay."

"One of the unique features of stone wool is that it is very open to vapour flow" "This means there are some tremendous advantages if you are trying to dry a wall or roof out or in, because water vapour came move almost unimpeded through the actual insulation product"

Thermal Bridging and Dew Points

Anyone who has heard me speak for more than 10 minutes has probably heard me talking about dew-point potential.  It is at the heart of good building science principles.  Move the dew-point to somewhere outside of your assemblies, and your assemblies will have a built-in safety regardless of any air movement through them.

But for many, this dew-point conversation is esoteric and abstract, they can not usually visualize a dew-point occurring (that they are aware of, the condensation on the outside of a glass or can of cold liquid is a demonstration of dew-points) and so cannot appreciate the importance of reducing its potential in building enclosure construction.

Well by happenstance, I had an excellent example present itself to me at my home this afternoon.  I was coming back from my neighbour’s house after ‘supervising’ the dismantling of some scaffolding, when I observed condensation on the inside of the window near my front door.  Now, I generally have single pane heavy aluminum frame windows throughout my home, so condensation around the frame margins of the windows is not an unusual occurrence.  However this window had a wood frame (site built) and did not usually suffer from condensation.

Why the difference?  Insulation and air films!

Condensation spotted on the inside of the window.

Inside of window is condensation free except behind some mail propped up against window.

Condensation is definitely on the inside face of the window.

General window surface temperature 56.5° F

Surface temperature drops to below 51°F behind the mail.

Temperature in nearby region is 68.1°F

Temperature behind mail 56.4°F with an RH of 64%

So, what does this all mean? 

I have to admit, that this took a lot longer than it should have to figure out.  On the first round of measuring, I had RH levels well below 50% and temps of 66.3°F ‘near’ the window (my office is at 44% and 72°F on the other side of the house and benefiting from all the heat being pumped out from the computer equipment). At these windows temps and RH, the dew-point should have been around 47°F which was clearly well below my initial recorded window surface temp of 53°F behind the mail. 

So why the condensation? 

It then occurred to me that this was a delicate microclimate and by removing the mail for too long to do the testing and photos,  I had inadvertently changed the local conditions and disturbed the air film that would have been against the surface of the window.  So, I put the mail back to let the conditions come to equilibrium again and reran the measurements to get the figures in the photos above.  As you can see, the temperature within a couple of ‘ft’ to the window was now over 68F and the humidity that was building up behind the mail was over 64%.  This works out to a dew-point around 56°F and with a window surface temp of just under 51°F, I was well below the dew-point and had condensation.

The mail was creating enough of a barrier to heat loss (acting as insulation), that it was lowering window surface temperatures over 5F and at the same time was creating a micro-climate where the humidity was ‘trapped’ by still air and building up well above the rest of the house.  

This demonstration highlights how delicate the balance can actually be and why heat-bridging in assemblies is so critical.  Whenever you have isolated conditions that allow a small area of your assembly to cool in relation to the assembly as a whole, or that allow the build-up of humidity, you have the recipe for  liquid water formation and when hidden inside an assembly, that can and often does lead to disaster!